Talking Wine with Barkan

By Dr. Kenneth Friedman

Barkan: At The Forefront of Israeli Winemaking

With over 2,200 acres of vineyards in Israel covering the vast array of microclimates available to such a relatively small country, the Barkan-Segal winery stands at the forefront of Israeli winemaking. Producing up to 14 million bottles annually, Barkan is continually innovating while focusing international eyes on Israel as a distinctive wine-producing country.

Formed in late 19th Century Petach Tikva, Barkan has undergone several transformations to become the now-totally modern and inventive winery and Visitor’s Center on its sprawling campus built at Kibbutz Hulda in 1990. In 2001, Barkan absorbed Segal Winery, though the winery continues to produce Segal as an independent label.

In the midst of a Shmittah* year in Israel and with the uncertainties of international commerce in the past two years of a global pandemic, Barkan has had to come up with a workable business plan to benefit both sales and agriculture. Producing wines at all price points, Barkan utilizes grapes from each of  Israel’s distinct terroir regions, including from the Golan Heights, the Upper and Lower Galilee, Samson, Mount Tabor, the Negev, the Jerusalem Mountains, and Mitzpe Ramon.

*Shmittah: Every seven years in Israel the land is to have a “sabbatical year,” and to lie fallow and rest. All agricultural activity is forbidden. Shmittah in Israel is the Jewish year of 5782, or Rosh Hashanah 2021 to Rosh Hashanah 2022.

So it is an auspicious time to take a few moments to chat with Dorit Ben-Simon, VP of International Sales & Marketing Manager at Barkan Winery and veteran of the Israeli wine scene, and Barkan head winemaker, Ido Lewinsohn, MW (Master of Wine). Lewinsohn is just the second Master of Wine in Israel and one of only 100 winemakers who hold this esteemed title in the world. Ben-Simon and Lewinsohn have invaluable insight into sales/marketing and winemaking, respectively.

Q&A with Dorit Ben-Simon and Ido Lewinsohn

Dorit and Ido, it is so nice to speak with you.

DBS: It is our pleasure.

IL: I am so glad to be talking to you again.

Dorit, let’s start with you. How important has the wine export industry become for Barkan-Segal? How about for Israel in general and how has this changed in the past generation?

DBS: The exports at Barkan-Segal were always important to the company. Today, we export 25% of our produce, which is a large number of bottles and varieties. The winery has always invested in marketing and sales beyond the State of Israel. We export to almost 40 countries around the world and the United States is the main destination. It’s important also to export the “Israeli aspect,” to let the world know the wonderful industry that is here in Israel, so not just to the Jewish communities that will appreciate the quality of Israel and our wines but also to the global market which has been our destination for so many years. It’s not easy with the competition out there but the quality of the wine, and great variety at Barkan under the direction of our chief winemaker, Master of Wine, Ido Lewinsohn, allow me as the director of international marketing and sales to develop and promote new international markets and increase exports dramatically. So yes, export is very important in many aspects.

How did Barkan plan with this year being a shmittah year?

DBS: The number of vineyards from North to South which Barkan-Segal owns is very large. Along with the amount of vineyards, our agriculture department manages a great deal of vineyards, which allows us a planting management strategy to prepare in advance for shmittah in advance. We prepare our inventory for the market in the world, for both those who consume shmittah wines and for the very large amount of communities in the United States who do not consume shmittah wines. We make sure there is no shortage of wines for our customers around the world. We are well prepared and looking forward to the next year. Yes it is challenging but we are ready.

Dorit, you mentioned Barkan’s Head Winemaker, Ido Lewinsohn. It is certainly a badge of pride for Barkan to boast a Master of Wine at its helm. Ido, congratulations again on this major achievement. This is a great accomplishment and will bring even more positive spotlight to Israel as a wine region. How has your MW changed the way you view wine?

IL: First of all thank you for the warm wishes about my MW. Basically my view has not changed since that achievement but my journey has been very long. It took me quite a long time, many years, and during that time I was able to study, to explore, to visit other countries, regions, and varieties, and that gives a very good perspective about your own town, which in my case is this tiny land of Israel. This I think in a way helped me to get a finer resolution of what I am looking for, which is an elegant style, more fruit-driven, and with a “sense of place” type of wine.

The other point to highlight is that I am exploring more and more of Israeli indigenous, native varieties, and different blends and basically trying to find what is our own voice in the local, but more importantly, on the international scene. What it is that we have to offer the world as Israeli wine. Not only of it being kosher, but more importantly what Israeli wine has to offer to the world.

So with that in mind, Ido, how does Israel stand out internationally and what do you see as a strength for this wine region? What makes Barkan’s vineyards special?

IL: Barkan vineyards are the largest in the country, so we are the largest grower and producer. This gives many, many options, such as the Upper Galilee, the Jerusalem area, the Judean Hills, the Judean Foothills, the coastal areas. There’s a vast choice of varieties, expositions, and soils, and even very different climates between the mountains and plains. So that’s very special and gives me both the possibility to create unique single vineyard wines as well as very special blends with high synergy as they come from very different terroirs.

So what variety do you feel distinguishes Israel in this regard?

IL: We love our Argaman. We feel it could be a sort of flagship variety or at least a very interesting variety for Israel, just as Malbec was for Argentina, Sauvignon Blanc for New Zealand, and Pinotage for South Africa, and so on. So we are making more of it and slowly we're introducing new labels, and I’m very excited about that, as well as our “Native” varieties with Segal, the Whole Cluster Syrah and Whole Cluster Carignan.

Dorit, what has been the hottest Barkan wine in the American market and why do you think this is?

DBS: For many years, the “Classic” line of Barkan has been a world leader. In the U.S. we see everywhere,  in every state … ok, maybe in Alaska we still have some challenges! … but it has been a huge success. But half a year ago, we launched the wonderful Barkan Platinum Cabernet Sauvignon wine which is my export star all over America. It is made from Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upper Galilee, from our best vineyards, and aged in our 500 liter barrels. Together with impressive packaging and an attractive price, it has become a dizzying success, an unbelievable star. I keep getting such a great response from consumers, retailers, the chain markets. It’s really a wonderful product. We are very proud of it. It has performed far above our expectations. I think the entire package of price, quality, and package is just right, and it just makes it perfect for the consumers. And it’s something new, and it’s a lifestyle world where people are always looking for something new and Barkan is always a leader in innovations.

Market trends in wine seem to forecast negativity for younger demographics. How does Barkan hope to reach this demographic?

DBS: Barkan-Segal Wines has so many varieties and products that can answer to any taste, age group, tradition, or to various communities. We have a wide variety of wonderful wines, from our entry level to our top luxury wine, Superieur. The Whole Cluster Series, the Wild Fermentation, and the Platinum, which is very popular right now. So I believe, in Israel, not like the classic wine countries like France and Italy, we see an increase in younger wine drinkers and young wine tourism, especially on Friday afternoon, which I think part of the last two years of not being able to travel outside of Israel, young people are drinking more and more wine, and looking for new experiences. And I think in that case, COVID has helped the wine industry, particularly with younger people. Of course our large and magnificent Visitor Center in Kibbutz Hulda hosts a large and diverse audience for professional tours and wine tastings, or events for companies, for weddings, and all kinds of other happy events, they get beautiful tastings and professional tours. I believe it’s more so this way than in traditional Old World wine countries with the younger generation.

That’s an interesting finding. I know people certainly seem to want to get together more than ever with their friends. Let’s hope that continues! Ido, part of your job is to plan for the future agriculturally. In what direction do you plan to take Barkan?

IL: The direction I hope to take Barkan is a continuation of the last five years since I have been at Barkan. The journey takes the same route, the same direction, of more terroir-driven wines, more moderate alcohol, finding new ways to protect from the undesired impact of the Mediterranean sun, which on one hand gives very luscious, juicy wine, but on the other hand there’s a risk of many wines looking, tasting, and smelling the same, because they can be easily overripe. So finding new ways to get the positive more than the negative impacts of extreme heat and enjoying the huge versatility of israeli soils and terroir in a very small place we have lots of different terroir, and keep finding our own style of spicy, fruity, juicy wines with good oak impact which is never overwhelming or overpowering. This is what I am aiming for - very high drinkability.

Speaking of moving into the future, there seem to be more women than ever in important roles in all fields of the wine industry. March is Women’s History Month, Dorit, what role do women such as yourself play in vaulting wineries such as Barkan to the apex of the wine industry?

DBS: Well, I've been around for a long time, and when I started my career in the world of wine there were few women in the field here in Israel. In many years in export I could see more and more women in different departments around the world. But that has changed dramatically as you can see wonderful professional business women all over wineries in Israel. This is great, but of course there is room for more women and I think that will continue to grow. Actually, the three biggest wineries in Israel, the export department is managed by three businesswomen, which is great. Of course we also have two winemakers in our department who are women and we are very proud of this. Personally, I sincerely hope that eventually, we won’t need any specific “Women’s Months or Days” in the future since there will be so many of us. But there is still a way to go.

We know you will help lead the way. Thank you Dorit and thank you Ido. Hope to visit you both soon!

DBS/IL: Thank you so much, Kenny. We hope to see you in the winery soon!

Enjoy Barkan for Passover!

Raise your glass and say L'Chaim by making Barkan part of your Passover celebrations with incredible wines discounted up to 32% off! From easy-drinking reds and premium offerings to tasteful whites, the options to choose from for The Four Cups are endless. L'Chaim!